Time Travel in Japan’s Mansion: Edo Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum

 

Cultural News, 2008 October Issue

 

Living room of the Maekawa residence built in 1942. (Photo by Yuko Itatsu)

 

By Yuko Itatsu

 

TOKYO - It’s not a theme park. It’s not a studio back lot, either. It’s the real thing. The Edo Tokyo Open Air Architecture Museum houses 27 restored buildings from the late Edo period to the 1950s across 17 acres of land in western Tokyo.

 

   Early 20th century buildings are hard to find, especially in Tokyo, where air raids were frequent during World War II, and real estate has been too expensive not to redevelop. The buildings showcased at the museums are significant historical artifacts, which were relocated because of difficulties maintaining them in their original location.

 

  One of the most impressive buildings is Prime Minister Korekiyo Takahashi’s residence. Takahashi’s residence, built in 1902, is a rare example of opulence and simplicity amalgamated into one. Takahashi was assassinated on the second floor of this house during the Feb. 26 Incident in 1936. Another must-see is the extravagance of the family residence of the Mitsui conglomerate built in 1952.

 

  As for western architecture, Kunio Maekawa’s residence displays the simple yet elegant lines of modernism that Maekawa himself learned as an apprentice to Le Corbusier. The Koide residence is an early work by architect Sutemi Horiguchi, and shows Dutch influences.

 

  Also on display are old farmhouses, traditional stores that sold stationary, sake, soy sauce, as well as postwar streetcars. Also noteworthy is the public bathhouse, which was an inspiration for Hayao Miyazaki’s film Spirited Away (2001).

 

  Three more buildings are scheduled to be restored at the Museum within the next few years.

 

  The museum is located in the suburbs of western Tokyo, as part of Koganei Park. From Shinjuku, take a 25-min train ride on the Chuo Line to either Higashi Koganei Station or Musashi Koganei Station, and then a five-minute bus ride. Regular admission is 400 yen, seniors 200 yen. Open Tuesday - Sunday, 9:30 a.m. - 5:30 p.m., closes at 4:30 from October to March. For more information, visit www.tatemonoen.jp (in Japanese only).

 

   Yuko Itatsu is a Ph.D. Candidate in History at the University of Southern California and Project Assistant Professor at the University of Tokyo.